METHOD OF MANUFACTURING PERSONALIZED COSMETIC ARTICLES, ESPECIALLY FALSE NAILS, AND ARTICLES THUS PRODUCED
20170027300 ยท 2017-02-02
Assignee
Inventors
- Henri Samain (Bievres, FR)
- Vincent De Laforcade (Rambouillet, FR)
- Franck Giron (Ferrieres en Brie, FR)
Cpc classification
B33Y10/00
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B29C64/135
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B29C64/386
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B33Y80/00
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B29C33/3842
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B33Y50/02
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
A45D29/004
HUMAN NECESSITIES
B29L2031/718
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
International classification
B33Y50/02
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B33Y80/00
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B33Y10/00
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
Abstract
The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing an article to be applied to the human body, comprising the following steps: digital acquisition of 3D contour data from the region on which the article needs to be applied; producing a mould using the 3D data and a numerical-control manufacturing machine; applying to the mould a coating intended to form the article; and at least partially cutting out the coating to the format of the article.
Claims
1. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic article to be applied to the human body, comprising: digitally acquiring 3D contour data from a region on which the article needs to be applied; producing a mould using the 3D data and a numerical-control manufacturing machine; applying to the mould a coating intended to form the article; and at least partially cutting out the coating to form on the article a window enabling a treatment to be carried out.
2. The method according to claim 1, the outline of the window corresponding to that of a nail to be treated.
3. The method according to claim 2, the 3D data of the nail to be treated and those of the phalanx that bears it being acquired before producing the mould.
4. The method according to claim 1, the 3D contour data being acquired by way of at least two images of the region, taken at different angles.
5. The method according to claim 1, the numerical-control machine used to produce the mould being a stereolithography machine or a 3D printer.
6. The method according to claim 1, the coating deposited in the mould being a coating in sheet form.
7. The method according to claim 1, the coating deposited on the mould having a variable thickness.
8. The method according to claim 1, the coating being deposited in the mould by spraying.
9. The method according to claim 6, a material of the coating in sheet form being shaped by thermoforming.
10. The method according to claim 6, a material of the coating in sheet form being multilayered.
11. The method according to claim 6, a material of the coating in sheet form having non-uniform mechanical properties.
12. A cosmetic treatment method, comprising applying an article produced according to claim 1 to the human keratinous materials and treating said human keratinous materials through the window.
13. The cosmetic treatment method according to claim 12, the article being used for decorating a nail.
14. The method according to claim 13, the article serving as a barrier protecting the skin during application of a varnish to the nail.
Description
[0099] The invention will be better understood on reading the detailed description that follows of exemplary non-limiting implementations thereof, and on examining the appended drawings, in which:
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[0112] Steps for implementing a method according to the invention will now be described with regard to
[0113] The method comprises a step 1 of acquiring 3D data relating to the contours of the region to be treated, i.e. the region intended to receive the article or to be treated with the article in place.
[0114] These 3D data are used to manufacture a mould in step 2.
[0115] The manufacture of the mould is preferably carried out by stereolithography or 3D printing, after an optional step 8 of processing the 3D data, so as to correct defects or give the expected shape to the article.
[0116] In the case of false-nail manufacture, the processing of the 3D data makes it possible to calculate the contours of the nail end based on the measured contours.
[0117] The processing of the 3D data may be carried out depending on the desires of the user, which may be entered in a step 9. This may for example be selection of a type of article to produce, for example the length of the false nails.
[0118] The deposition of a coating on the mould, in step 4, may be carried out by applying a material in sheet form to the mould or by spraying the coating onto the mould.
[0119] Once the coating has been deposited it may be cut out, in step 6, so as to produce the article or articles to be applied in the desired format.
[0120] The cutting-out operation 6 in particular makes it possible to separate the article from the rest of the material deposited on the mould.
[0121] Once the article has been cut out the latter may be applied to the region to be treated, for example using a pressure-sensitive adhesive so as to make it possible to easily remove the article.
[0122] In a variant, the application may occur before the cutting out, i.e. during the application the article is rigidly connected to a support that is then detached from the article. In this case the article advantageously possesses preformed scoring so as to make detachment from the support easier. The cutting-out step 6 is then only partially implemented.
[0123] The method according to the invention may be implemented using a system 10 that may comprise, as illustrated in
[0124] The subsystem 11 for acquiring 3D data comprises for example one or more digital imaging devices or cameras which make it possible to generate one or more images of the region intended to receive the article.
[0125] In particular, especially in the case of a nail, the acquisition subsystem 11 takes three images of the nail and optionally of the phalanx on which it is found, especially images from the front, top and side. These images make it possible, by way of image processing, to extract a 3D data file from the shape of the nail. The image processing is for example carried out by a computer.
[0126] The subsystem 12 for manufacturing the mould is for example a stereolithography machine that receives 3D data about the object to be produced and produces the latter by in situ photopolymerization of a photopolymerizable material, by virtue of a laser that defines the shape to be produced layer by layer.
[0127] Stereolithography machines are offered by 3D Systems.
[0128] The subsystem 12 for manufacturing the mould may also be a 3D printer, a 3D printer with sufficient spatial resolution preferably being chosen so that reproduction of details having a size smaller than or equal to 50 m is possible. 3D printing consists in depositing printed layers in succession so as to form a three-dimensional structure. 3D printers are available under the Stratasys, HP Designjet 3D or ProJet CPX 3000 (from 3D Systems) trade names.
[0129] The subsystem 13 for manufacturing the article using the mould may comprise a mechanism making it possible to apply a material in sheet form to the mould, to press this material in sheet form against the mould, extract the material in sheet form after it has been shaped and then cut it out.
[0130] The subsystem 13 may in particular comprise a device making it possible to heat the material in sheet form, in order to soften it, before it is applied against the mould.
[0131] The heating is carried out for example by passing the material in sheet form under a heater rail or by bringing it into contact with rollers or any other heated surface.
[0132] The material in sheet form is heated to a temperature high enough to cause it to soften and enable it to conform precisely to the shape of the mould.
[0133] The subsystem 13 may comprise, if required, means making it possible to press the material in sheet form against the mould, for example using a jet of gas or a liquid, or suction created under the material in sheet form.
[0134] The mould may be produced so as to aid the cutting out of the thermoformed sheet. For example, the mould may have small spikes which ensure that the thermoformed sheet is perforated between the article and the rest of the material in sheet form.
[0135] The mould may be treated so as to aid removal and/or cutting-out. For example, the mould is covered with a non-slip compound, a lubricant or particles or a thin layer of a soluble compound. In the latter case, it is possible to subsequently detach the article by immersing the whole in a solvent bath, which dissolves the soluble compound.
[0136] The method for shaping a material in sheet form provides a smooth external surface to the article.
[0137] When the material in sheet form is being placed in the mould, it is possible to treat the external surface of the material in sheet form in order to make it even smoother, for example by blowing, or in order to make it less smooth, for example by applying a counter-mould having a predefined surface finish.
[0138] The method according to the invention may provide, as explained above, an internal surface that is not smooth, which may aid bonding of the article to the region that is meant to receive it, especially bonding of a false nail to a nail.
[0139] The method according to the invention encompasses the possibility of modifying the 3D data obtained from the region to be treated, in particular the nail to be treated, so as to make changes to the article, for example so as to realize burrs, grooves and other textures intended to modify the adhesion of the internal surface of the article and/or signs, number or letters for example so as to aid identification by the user of the target region, especially the target nail.
[0140] The material in sheet form may be made of any thermo formable material, and in particular of one or more thermoplastic polymers. Optionally, the material in sheet form is a metal, a wax or a composite based on a woven or a non-woven. The material in sheet form may also be a glass or a ceramic. In the latter case, the mould may be used for manufacturing a preform which is then sintered. The mould may be lost.
[0141] The material in sheet form may be flexible or hard, porous or non-porous.
[0142] The material in sheet form may comprise, in addition to a thermo formable material, other compounds providing porosity, solubility, strength, heat- and/or solvent-activated softening or active compounds, antibacterial compounds, UV filters, this list being non-limiting. The material in sheet form may comprise fillers more particularly intended to increase strength, for example fibres.
[0143] The sheet material may be coloured or pigmented or have a physical colouring effect, for example by virtue of one or more interference layers.
[0144] The material in sheet form may be multicoloured or be patterned. In particular, the pattern may be produced so that applying the material in sheet form to the roundness of the mould gives it the final desired appearance. Thus, during production of the pattern the shape change of the material in sheet form on shaping is taken into account.
[0145] The material in sheet form may be multilayered and for example comprise, as illustrated in
[0146] In order to protect the false nail, the material in sheet form may be associated with a protective element.
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[0148] The protective element 160 may be produced from an impact-absorbing deformable material, for example an elastomer. The protective element 160 may be produced, for example from a material in sheet form that is made of two materials, during the manufacture of the false nail.
[0149] The internal surface of the material in sheet form intended to be in contact with the human keratinous materials may comprise an adhesive.
[0150] This surface may be covered with a removable protective sheet protecting the inner face of the article before the first use thereof, for example a silicone sheet.
[0151] The internal surface of the material in sheet form may also be coated with a water-soluble powder that protects the adhesive before use. The activation of the adhesive strength of the surface is then obtained by dissolving the powder using a drop of water before application to the human keratinous materials.
[0152] In one embodiment, the composition of the layer that is used for the adhesion, for example layer 20 in
[0153] In a second step, layer 20 of the article is brought into contact with the previously modified keratinous materials, in order to attach the article. This attachment may be improved by using an agent that reacts with the receiving surface, for example containing a disulphide, in the composition of layer 20.
[0154] In order to facilitate the debonding of the article from human keratinous materials, the article may be brought, during the removal, into contact with an organic solvent, for example a carbon-based oil, capable of reducing the adhesive strength of the adhesive used to attach the article. The solvent may migrate through the article to reach the adhesive. For this purpose, the material in sheet form may be porous in order to enable this migration. This porosity may be, for example, in the form of internal channels, improving the contact between the solvent and the adhesive. This porosity may also develop with use of the article.
[0155] The material in sheet form may also exhibit a porosity which, in the new article, opens only onto the surface intended to be in contact with the human keratinous materials. Thus, the appearance of the external surface is preserved. When it is sought to remove the article, the porous region of the article may be exposed to the solvent owing to a mechanical action on the article, for example a separation of layers of the article, for example carried out transversely or longitudinally. This separation may be obtained by cutting, for example transversely through the article, especially using scissors or nail clippers.
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[0158] In another embodiment illustrated in
[0159] In another embodiment illustrated by
[0160] The material in sheet form may comprise an electric generator and a lighting device. The electric generator comprises an integrated battery or a photovoltaic sensor. The lighting device, for example of LED or OLED type, makes it possible to illuminate in one or more directions. Within the context of the use of the material in sheet form in a false nail, the lighting device makes it possible in particular to render the edge of the free end of the false nail visible and luminous.
[0161] The adhesive used to attach the article to human keratinous materials is for example selected from pressure-sensitive adhesives, also known as PSA adhesives, which are polymers having a low Tg, generally lying between 10 C. and 80 C., which are capable of adhering on contact. More particularly, these adhesives may be acrylic, methacrylic, acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, polyurethanes or polyesters. Preferred PSA adhesives are those that can be dissolved in a simple solvent that may make contact with the human bodyin particular water, ethanol, isododecane, acetone or alkyl acetates. For example, the solvent AQ 1350 produced by Eastman Chemicals is chosen. The adhesive may take the form of particles and in particular non-film-forming particles. Thus the adhesive has the advantage, during removal of the article after use, of remaining on the article side and not on the nail. For example, it is possible to use non-film-forming particles a few tens of microns in size, such as those sold by API under the name Geltac 600D.
[0162] The adhesive may also be a non-PSA compound that adheres when brought into contact with a third compound. This is the case for many polymers and in particular polymers having a Tg ranging from 0 C. to 120 C. If a third compound such as a solvent capable of plasticizing the polymer is selected, the Tg of the material will drop and make it possible for the material to adhere. Thus it is possible to choose for example an acrylic copolymer, the Tg of which is about 80 C., sold by Chimex under the name Mexomer.
[0163] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the article is delivered covered in such a non-PSA adhesive and kept with a volatile solvent, the whole being packaged so that it is not possible for the solvent to evaporate. At the point of use, the solvent will begin to evaporate and thus the Tg will increase and the material will adhere.
[0164] In another particular embodiment of the invention, the material contains a solvent that can be absorbed by keratinous materials, for example acetone. Thus, as soon as the article is brought into contact with the nail some of the solvent will be absorbed, the Tg will increase, and the material will adhere.
[0165] It is also possible to use materials called reactive adhesives. These materials adhere well via a reaction effect. They are however limited to use on occasions when the user would like the article to remain in place for a very long time. In this case, it is possible for example to use a cyanoacrylate material, such as for example ethyl cyanoacrylate.
[0166] The layer providing strength is for example made of one of the following materials: PET, PVC, polycarbonates, polyolefins such as for example polypropylene or high-density polyethylene, ABS, polyamides.
[0167] The decorative layer is for example a mixture of pigments or dyes, possibly being associated with solvents and binders (waxes, polymers).
[0168] The decorative layer may be covered with a protective layer that provides a shiny appearance and protection. This protective layer is preferably transparent. The protective layer may contain at least one wax or a polymer. This decorative layer may also be a film of a thermoplastic such as ABS or polystyrene.
[0169] The layers may be thin enough to generate interference effects, if required.
[0170] In the case where the article is used to cover a nail, the protective layer may cover relatively rigid materials such as thermoformable polymers, ceramics, glass or metals.
[0171] In one embodiment, the protective layer helps, with the material(s) that it covers, to create a specific sound quality. In particular, the properties of the protective layer may be chosen in combination with those of the material in sheet form so that the sound quality of the whole assembly in contact with an object from the surroundings is close to that of a natural nail.
[0172] The material in sheet form is for example from 0.1 to 2 mm in thickness, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.7 mm in thickness before being shaped in the mould. After shaping, the thickness may remain substantially constant, but the material may have been stretched in places.
[0173] The strengthening layer is for example between 50 m and 3 mm in thickness.
[0174] The decorative layer is for example between 1 and 200 m in thickness, or even better between 1 and 50 m in thickness.
[0175] The material in sheet form may have non-uniform mechanical properties before being placed onto the mould. For example, the thickness of the layer 21 providing strength increases towards one edge, as illustrated in
[0176] The material in sheet form may have a variable thickness before it is placed on the mould. For example, the thickness may increase uniformly from one edge to the other.
[0177] In one embodiment, illustrated by
[0178] When the material in sheet form is being or has been placed on the mould, it is possible to treat the visible surface of the material in sheet form to produce relief effects.
[0179] In a particular exemplary implementation of the invention, instead of a thermoformable material being used a coating comprising a curable compound and a volatile solvent is used, for example a material in sheet form which is soft because it is imbibed with a volatile solvent, and/or a crosslinkable material in solution or in sheet form. When a volatile solvent is present, the shaping is carried out while there is sufficient solvent to allow the material to conform to the mould.
[0180] Heating or the application of a vacuum are for example used to make the solvent evaporate. In the case of a crosslinkable material in solution or in sheet form, the shaping is carried out while the material is still in the uncrosslinked state.
[0181] The material in sheet form may be pressed against the mould by mechanical means, by pressure of a or by applying a vacuum fluid. The temperature necessary for the thermoforming is matched to the material.
[0182] The article may be treated in various ways after it has been moulded. In particular it is possible to apply a, for example adhesive, underlayer to at least some of the surface of the article, in particular the region opposite the nail, whether an additional protective layer, such as a removable non-stick film, is applied or not.
[0183] Another possible post-moulding treatment is the application of a non-stick underlayer, in particular to the region of the false nail that is not opposite the nail, or of an antibacterial, antifungal, coloured (in particular white) underlayer, especially to the region that is not opposite the nail.
[0184] It is also possible to apply an overlayer such as a coloured sheet, a print printed using an inkjet printer, a colour deposited with a brush or by spraying, a shiny layer based for example on a high-refractive-index material, for example a metal or a metal oxide, especially titanium oxide.
[0185] Mineral, organic or hybrid compounds may be employed within the material used to produce the article, which compounds, whether on heating or baking or under light or at room temperature, become stronger via a chemical reaction. This is for example the case for a crosslinkable or photocrosslinkable material, or a material that is able to undergo a reaction that makes it insoluble. The reactions may form interchain bridges via the addition of a crosslinking agent or via interchain reactions.
[0186] To do this, the article may be subjected to conditions that aid or enable this development.
[0187] It is thus possible to heat the article. In particular, it is possible to use a mineral or hybrid (mineral and organic) material and using heat modify it so as to make it stronger or change its colour. In particular, the material may be a mixture of crystals that are capable of forming a frit on baking, a frit being a state in which the crystals are partially fused to one another. This is the case for materials used in the ceramic.
[0188] The human keratinous materials, in particular the nails, on which the article is subsequently deposited, may be covered with a single-layer or multilayer coating. This coating may be produced, for example, using a varnish. In the case where the article is a transparent false nail, a varnish makes it possible to increase the gloss of the false nail, so that after placement, a gloss equivalent to that of the keratinous material of the nail, or an artificial gloss, is obtained. Furthermore, the false nail protects the varnish. The varnish may act as an adhesive, for attaching the article to the nail.
[0189] In one embodiment, the coating comprises an adhesive, preferably of PSA type. This adhesive may be deposited, for example, in the form of a solution or of an unwindable tape.
[0190] In another embodiment, an adhesive, preferably of PSA type, is deposited on the inner face of the article intended to be placed facing the keratinous materials. The adhesive may be in the form of a solution and may be deposited using an applicator, for example a brush, or be in the form of an adhesive tape adhesively bonded to the inner face. Optionally, this adhesive may be covered with a sheet that protects it before its first use, for example a silicone sheet. The adhesive may also be covered with a water-soluble powder which protects it before use. The activation of the adhesive strength is obtained by dissolving the powder using a drop of water before application to the human keratinous materials.
[0191] The adhesive may have a weaker shear strength than tensile strength. Thus it is possible to debond the article from the human keratinous materials by sliding it and to maintain a strong hold in daily use.
[0192] To facilitate the debonding of the article from the human keratinous materials, the properties of the adhesive may be chosen so that the adhesive loses a portion of its adhesive strength when it is subjected to a thermal shock, especially a cold shock, or to a vibration, for example a high-frequency vibration.
[0193] In one embodiment, the adhesive is a structural adhesive other than a PSA adhesive. In particular, this adhesive may be a hot-melt adhesive, and may see its adhesion decrease under the effect of an increase in the temperature, for example by liquefying.
[0194] In one embodiment, the adhesive contains, inter al/a, a photosensitive agent, for example a photocrosslinkable agent. The adhesive is for example applied to the human keratinous materials before photocrosslinking. The article is then positioned on the adhesive. A light source, for example a UV source, is then placed so as to irradiate the adhesive and induce the crosslinking thereof.
[0195] So as to facilitate the debonding of the article from the human keratinous materials, a solvent that migrates through the article may be used, and the article may, for this purpose, be produced using a material in sheet form that is at least partially porous, as described previously.
[0196] In particular, the adhesive may be chosen in order to be able to be debonded in contact with a specific organic solvent, especially a carbon-based oil. The solvent may be volatile and temporarily suppress the effect of the adhesive, enabling a repositioning of the article on the human keratinous materials before the adhesion becomes effective again. In the case of a nail, this embodiment allows a repositioning of the article on the nail during the growth thereof.
[0197] Shape of the Mould
[0198] The shape of the surface of the mould does not necessarily correspond to that of the nail, as explained above.
[0199] In an exemplary implementation of the invention, part of the surface of the mould corresponds to the shape of the nail.
[0200] It is thus possible to produce a mould that is larger than the area of the nail. In this case, the mould has an area corresponding to the shape of the nail extended by an area called an extending area. In particular, the extending area is produced so as to follow the nail harmoniously.
[0201] It is possible for the mould to have a recess, so that it hides the thickness of the natural nail, the natural nail end being placed opposite the recess.
[0202] In another example, the area of the mould is smaller than the area of the nail.
[0203] If the nail is big, the 3D data recorded may be modified so that they correspond to a short nail.
[0204] The method may be used to produce patches. In this case, a flexible and/or thin material is used which is deposited on the mould.
[0205] It is possible to provide an article that extends beyond the natural size of the nail. Then, the length of the nail is cut (using a laser or pair of scissors for example) to the desired size.
[0206] Cutting guides may be used to help the user produce an attractive cut since it is known that a straight cut is not the most attractive. These guides may be dotted lines that are visible but that may be easily removed by rubbing or washing.
EXAMPLE
[0207] 3D data were acquired by taking an image from the front, side, and from above each nail using a digital imaging device. In Solid Works, or Rhinoceros, or Autocad, the nail was outlined and the 3D digital file was obtained.
[0208] This file was processed in order to add a support to the five parts intended to mould the nails of a hand.
[0209] The file was then used in a 3D Systems stereolithography machine to manufacture the mould out of a photopolymerizable resin.
[0210] The stereolithography machine created a bulk item 40 equipped with suction holes 41, and in which the perimeter of each boss 44 (also called an imprint) corresponding to the shape of a nail is provided with a flat 43, as illustrated.
[0211] A sheet 50 of thermoplastic material was placed over this mould, as illustrated in
[0212] The sheet 50 was for example a bilayer of PET coated with red PS, the bilayer being heated to 80 C.
[0213] Suction was applied through the suction holes 41, thereby pressing the softened sheet 50 hard against the mould, as illustrated in
[0214] The height of the bosses and the thickness of the starting sheet defined the final thickness of the thermoformed false nail.
[0215] The surface finish of the mould was not transferred to the external surface of the thermoformed false nail.
[0216] The slight roughness of the surface of the mould was transferred to the internal face of the thermoformed false nail, thus increasing the bonding area, meaning that the item adhered well to the nail.
[0217] On demoulding, a form was obtained which could be decorated if desired, for example by pad printing or inkjet printing.
[0218] Next the thermoformed material was cut out, using a laser, along the flat 43 so as to obtain false nails 60 thermoformed to the exact shape of the consumer, decorated as desired and personalized, as illustrated in
[0219] An artificial inclination of the bosses, easily programmable, makes it possible to thin the distal part of the thermoformed false nail, if necessary.
[0220] Tests have shown that it is possible to thermoform a material in sheet form consisting of a film intended to produce patches for the nails, especially Nail Patch films from Sephora. It is thus possible to bond the material in sheet form before manufacturing the false nail.
[0221] It may be seen in
[0222] The positioning guide 63 was connected to a support.
[0223] The false nail 60 may be connected to the positioning guide 63 via preformed scoring 68, so that the user may position the false nail 60 by first of all introducing a finger into the positioning guide 63 in order to adjust the false nail to the position of the corresponding nail.
[0224] The user may fix the false nail, for example by applying pressure, an adhesive being present at the interface between the nail and the false nail, then detach the positioning guide 63 from the false nail by virtue of the preformed scoring 68.
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[0226] The article may be used by positioning the window 90 over the exact location of the nail.
[0227] Then, the user may apply a product, for example a varnish, to the nail, with the mask in place, without fear of applying the product to the skin around the nail, the skin being protected by the mask.
[0228] The user removes the article after an optional drying period.
[0229] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples.
[0230] In particular, it is possible to combine the various variants with one another into other variants that have not been illustrated.
[0231] The expression comprising a/an/one is to be understood to be synonymous with comprising at least a/an/one, unless the contrary has been specified.